Trekking Tales: Conquering Ghorepani, Poon Hill, and Ghandruk

“Diwakar, are we lucky enough to view the panoramic views of majestic peaks from the top of Poonhill?” I have asked this question so many times to the porter with us, and every time he said, “Yes, sir.” At 5:45 am, we reached Poon Hill, and Dhaulagiri was smiling there. Like others, we were also waiting for the sunrise. The little rays of sunrise reflected onto Dhaulagiri (8,127m), and we saw the glow on Dhaulagiri. Around 170 people were waiting for the sunrise, and the sun took its time to rise. After 6 am, the sun rose, and we were face to face with the magnificent panoramic views of majestic peaks like Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Machapuchare, and many more. “I told you guys we would definitely see mountains,” Diwakar exclaimed, as if he had called upon the mountain Gods the day before.

No Mountains in Nepal

My Rotary friends from the Rotary Club of Aachen Frankenburg (Germany) and the Rotary Club of Hilversum (Netherlands) were disappointed after completing a recent trek to Dhampus and Australian Base Camp in Nepal without seeing any mountains. I assured them that I would send them non-AI generated pictures of mountains next week after I complete my trek to Poon Hill. Pokhara usually offers breathtaking mountain views from any vantage point, but from last few weeks, the mountains remained elusive.

Spontaneous Trek

One evening, a lovely couple, who are close friends of mine, informed me of their plans for trekking and invited me to join them. Without hesitation, I enthusiastically agreed and set the date for April 16, 2024 (Tuesday). On April 15th, I called them to confirm, and they informed me, “Tomorrow is Tuesday, and it’s considered unlucky for travel, so let’s postpone it to Wednesday.” I remained unsure of their plans and had not received any calls until Tuesday evening. Subsequently, I initiated a call, inquiring about the itinerary, and proceeded to pack my bag at 9 pm. On April 17, 2024, the four of us—Upendra, Kanti, their son Vikrant, and I—journeyed by private vehicle from Kathmandu to Pokhara and rested for the night.

Nayapul : the starting point for numerous famed treks

We woke up when Lakeside Pokhara was sleeping. Just a few hours earlier, it had been alive. After our morning rituals, Upen drove the vehicle towards Nayapul via the popular Hemja road and stopped for a cup of tea and biscuits. It took one hour to drive from Lakeside to Nayapul.

Nayapul, situated in the Kaski district of Nepal within the Annapurna Conservation Area, stood as a quaint village renowned as the starting point for numerous famed treks, including the Annapurna Base Camp and Ghorepani Poon Hill routes. Functioning as a pivotal gateway to the mountains, it beckoned adventurers from across the globe. This bustling village thrived with guesthouses, tea shops, and quaint stores, catering to the diverse needs of trekkers. Additionally, Nayapul served as the essential hub for obtaining vital permits for trekkers.

Nayapul to Ulleri Drive

Most of the people started their trek from Nayapul, but we had decided to start from Ulleri. We transferred our backpacks to another reserved jeep and headed towards Ulleri by crossing the bridge over the Modi River, and it took approximately two hours.

Ulleri Village: And the trek begins

Ulleri is primarily inhabited by the Magar ethnic community, known for their rich cultural heritage, traditions, customs, music, and dance. It is renowned for its iconic stone steps, which are a prominent feature of the village.

We had typical Tibetan bread with honey, an omelet, and a cup of tea for breakfast after ten minutes uphill. This was the first time I was trekking with Upendra and his family, and I really didn’t know their walking strengths and weaknesses.

We started our trek on the stairs between local houses. We had decided to walk slowly on the first day of the trek, remembering that ‘slow and steady wins the race.’ The steep ascent made us tired. Despite our pace, we competed with many other trekkers. Later, we learned that the stone staircase consists of approximately 3000 steps in Ulleri, making it a challenging but rewarding part of the trek. The weather was not clear, so the mountains were hiding like a newly married bride. We hoped the weather would clear up during our visit to Poonhill. We passed many tea houses and finally reached Banthanti.

Banthanti: The cowboy hat and smile of beautiful lady

Vikrant is a good boy, speaks little, and responds with “Okay” to whatever you say to him. That evening, while we packed our backpacks, he was upset. After numerous requests from Vikrant to carry his trekking bag instead of the small one, his parents initially denied his pleas. However, after persistent appeals, his parents finally relented and allowed him to carry it. He wanted to experience real trekking, and we saw it in his face while resting in Banthanti.

Banthanti (2200m) village consists of a number of tea houses, restaurants, and shops. Upendra wanted to buy a hat while we drove from Kathmandu to Pokhara. But he hesitated to buy it because he thought it wouldn’t suit him. I saw a cowboy hat in Banthanti and tried it on in front of the mirror. A beautiful lady, who wore a smile as an ornament, came near to me. “Wow, it looks awesome. This hat really suits you,” she said politely and requested to buy it. My lips said No, but my heart said yes. After a bit of bargaining, I bought it.

Nangge Thanti: Dal Bhat Power 24 Hour

The journey begins once again with the stone stairs inside the jungle towards Nangge Thanti. Walking upstairs, listening to the sounds of the lake and birds, we clicked pictures and videos. While passing the landslide area, I got a crazy idea to shoot my videos carrying all the luggage that the porter carried. Diwakar loved shooting videos of me, while other members enjoyed clicking their family pictures.

We reached Nangge Thanti and ordered Dal Bhat at Hungry Eye Restaurant. The old lady prepared Dal Bhat over the firewood. We enjoyed the food; it was delicious. Later, we decided that the Dal Bhat served by Hungry Eye Restaurant was the best food during these 3 days of trekking. With our stomachs full of delicious lunch, we got back on the trail to head to Ghorepani.

Ghorepani: Hiking through Rhododendron Forest

It’s hard to pronounce and write down the spelling of Rhododendron, not only back then but even today. The weather was still not clear, but we were hiking inside the Rhododendron forest. Pink, white, and some red flowers surrounded us in the forest, making us forget about the mountains. The weather changed a little, and it was about to rain. After almost 5 hours of walking, we reached Lower Ghorepani Village at 3:30 pm. We took pictures outside the welcome door and continued walking up the stone stairs towards Upper Ghorepani, passing lots of tea houses and hotels. We stayed at Hotel Snowland.

Hotel Snowland: Goodnight

It’s cold outside, so we ordered Jhaikhatte as a welcome drink and sat next to the wood-burning fire stove, making it super warm inside. There were twenty-plus people inside the hotel, all of them busy using their mobile phones, uploading pictures to social media, and playing games.

For dinner, we ordered Thukpa, Chowmein, Rice with Curry, and the food was yummy. In the Annapurna Region, one can find any kind of food, like Nepali, Chinese, Indian, or Continental. Since we needed to wake up early the next morning, we went to bed early.

Poon Hill: Sunrise

“Hey, wake up,” Upendra and Kanti knocked on the door. We freshened up and started our trek towards Poon Hill at 4:30 am. It was dark, and there was a huge crowd walking with flashlights. It’s about an hour’s climb to the top from Ghorepani. We reached the peak on time to witness the sunrise and the view of the mountain ranges. We got awesome views of the Himalayas, including Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, and Fishtail. Finally, we counted ourselves lucky to have a face-to-face encounter with the mountains. We spent more than an hour at the summit trying to capture the most beautiful moments, drank a cup of tea, and then returned to the hotel in Ghorepani.

The Poon Hill (3210m) Trek is a popular hiking route in the Annapurna region. It’s loved because it’s easy to do and doesn’t take too long. Along the way, you get amazing views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountains. Plus, you can experience the unique culture and daily life of the local community.

Breakfast in Ghorepani

We freshened up and packed our bags before breakfast. Nobody was willing to take a shower. There is a phrase while trekking: “Dal Bhat Power 24 Hour, Seven Days No Shower,” so we followed it and went without showers for the next seven days because it was only the second day. After finishing our American breakfast and settling all the bills, we headed back to the trail towards Tadapani. There are no comments on the food at Hotel Snowland. We enjoyed both dinner and breakfast.

Tadapani (Far Water): The water source was once far from the village

We started walking through lovely forests to Tadapani, passing through more Rhododendron forests on our way. A steep uphill walk offered more spectacular views of the mountains. It seemed like the mountains were following us with a beautiful smile. The walking pace was faster than the previous day, and we reached Thapla Danda (3165m), where we clicked a few photographs with the smiling mountains before continuing our journey.

Our stomachs were rumbling, and we had decided to have lunch at Banthati, where we ordered Dal Bhat once again. After Dal Bhat, we walked through the ups and downs inside the jungle. The trail was far better than the Ulleri-Ghorepani route. We enjoyed each moment and reached Deurali, where we clicked a few Bollywood-style photographs with the mountains. At 3:30 pm, we reached Tadapani. From Tadapani, it’s a 2-hour walking distance to reach Ghandruk, but we decided to stay in Tadapani. We enjoyed our evening with some drinks and later had dinner.

Ghandruk the Gurung Village

We woke up early for the sunrise from Tadapani, eagerly anticipating the breathtaking sight of the sun casting its first rays on the majestic peaks. Upendra captured the moment with his camera, but our anticipation turned to disappointment as thick clouds shrouded the mountains, obscuring their grandeur.

Feeling a mix of emotions as our trek neared its end, we set off for Ghandruk, eager for the day ahead after breakfast.

Arriving at Gurung Cottage, we were met with mixed emotions. The anticipation of a traditional photoshoot was tinged with apprehension, knowing it marked the conclusion of our trek. Despite the disappointment in the food and the owner’s demeanor, we embraced the opportunity to capture the essence of our journey in the vibrant hues of Gurung attire.

As we rode the bus to Nayapul, we felt the weight of leaving. But despite the sadness, we were fulfilled, knowing our journey had been unforgettable. Looking back on our time in Pokhara, we knew the memories would stay with us forever, even as our trek came to an end.

Bring Back Your Trash

A gentle reminder: Please carry out your trash. By simply bringing back what you brought in, we can keep our trails clean and beautiful for all to enjoy.