The Langtang Trek in the Himalayas

The Team

For many years, I’ve contemplated embarking on a Langtang trekking adventure. Frustrated by the inability to find friends willing to join me on this journey, I decided to go solo. Suddenly, my friend Pappu expressed his desire to join me, bringing a welcomed sense of companionship. Encouraged by this development, I approached another friend, Sujan, who eagerly agreed to join the trek.

Similarly, there was a lady named Jiswan who, like me, had been let down by friends ditching her for Langtang on two separate occasions. Determined to find a group, she discovered that I was planning the trek. Despite being strangers, she reached out, expressing her interest in joining me. With just a phone call, we agreed to meet the following day to discuss our plans. During our meeting, I shared my itinerary, and to my delight, she was completely on board with the proposed schedule. It was on February 4th, 2021.

Langtang Trek

The Langtang trek, a relatively shorter hiking route in Nepal, showcases breathtaking scenery ranging from jungles at lower altitudes to glaciers and ice peaks at higher elevations. Despite its concise nature, the route presents considerable challenges from the outset, featuring numerous long and steep ascents—a characteristic test for trekkers.

Karamchand Jasoos

Jiswan was actively seeking information about me by inquiring with various individuals. Planning to go trekking for 5-6 days with someone you don’t know well is a positive situation; making inquiries is beneficial. What she doesn’t know is those whatever conversations she had; people shared with me as well.

Syabrubesi

The Langtang trek follows an out-and-back route, commencing and concluding in Syabrubesi, a small town located 120 km northeast of Kathmandu city near the China border. The journey initiated with a 6-7 hour drive from Kathmandu to Syabrubesi. We opted for a Jeep from Machapokhari, Kathmandu, incurring a cost of Rupees 1,000.

The Beginning of the Journey

At 3:00 pm in the afternoon, we chose not to spend the first day in Syabrubesi. The entire team unanimously decided to initiate the journey by walking for two hours and halting at either Pairo (Landslide) or Bamboo. There was minimal stoppage in Syabrubesi. As we crossed the suspension bridge over the Bhote Koshi, concealed by the Langtang River, and proceeded beyond the Langtang Khola bridge, the path inclined upwards. Walking alongside the river on a trail where it murmured, we followed its rhythm, immersing ourselves in its music. Upon reaching a location called Pairo, with darkness setting in, we made the decision to take a break and rest at the hotel in Pairo.

Mr Junky

At Pairo, we stayed overnight at Mr. Junky’s place. We ordered tea and took out snacks from our backpack before dinner. The dinner and tea were just okay. Despite being uneducated, he mostly spoke in broken English, possibly influenced by the foreigners who visited Langtang or his family in the United States. Before going to bed, Jiswan informed that she would teach him how to make a cup of tea the next morning.

How Could a Cat Run Away With a Milk Packet?

Waking up early during our off-season trip brought a special feeling of quiet, as our group was the only one exploring. Excited to begin the day, each of us took our time getting ready. But, before we could ask for anything, Mr. Junky told us a surprising story – the cat took off with the milk packet. This unexpected event meant that Jiswan’s plan for a morning cup of tea was interrupted because there was no milk. We asked many times, “How could a cat run away with a milk packet?”

We shared laughter, teasing Mr. Junky playfully. After having breakfast, we continued our journey.

Journey Continue

The Langtang trek presents a moderately easy challenge. On our first day, we walked for only 2 hours, prompting us to plan a longer hike until evening, spanning 8-9 hours, with the goal of reaching Lantang Village.

Another beautiful walking day with breathtaking scenery and many places along the route to stop for tea or lunch break. The scenery was fantastic, all the way along the river, through the forest. A very steep and long ascent from Bamboo to Lama Hotel.

Naked Mountain

We were in a rare situation because we didn’t see many other trekkers on our journey. While chatting, we talked about the special part of our trip – traveling in the off-season, which meant there were no other trekkers around. This made our exploration feel exclusive. As we talked, we noticed that the mountains, usually covered in snow, were bare. Surprisingly, we hadn’t seen the full beauty of the mountains up close yet, making us excited for the amazing views to come. The combination of the quiet off-season and the exposed beauty of the mountains made our trekking experience even more special.

Lunch at Ghodatabela

After walking for a few hours, we reached Ghodatabela. With only one tea house open, our hungry stomachs prevented us from continuing our journey. Consequently, we requested them to prepare Dal Bhat for us, a meal consisting of only rice, lentils, and potatoes. Despite its simplicity, our empty stomachs thoroughly enjoyed it. While having lunch, we observed a few snow-covered mountains from Ghodatabela.

Delicious Dal Bhat as Dinner in Thangsyap Village

Though there are no route markers, the trail along the river is easy to follow. After resting for more than an hour during our lunch at Ghodatabela, we made the decision to stay in Thangsyap. Thangsyap village is situated in a pleasant location under a few hundred meters of a rock cliff.

“WOW! There was chicken for dinner.” A full set of Dal Bhat was served by the chef that night, and we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner. Dal Bhat power for 24 hours.

Messaging

Wake up early but don’t want to leave the bed. The internet is also working. Sujan and I are chatting quietly to avoid disturbing others.

Snowfall Surprises and Cozy Evenings

And the journey pressed on from Thangsyap to Kyanjin, trekking past many tea houses, although very few were open. The mountains were covered with only a sparse layer of snow. We proceeded at a leisurely pace. Nature surprised us with an unexpected snowfall, and we relished the experience. Suddenly, Langtang village was blanketed in snow. We played in the snow until it got dark and cold, searching for a tea house. All of them were closed except for one. We inquired about a room, finding the tea house empty except for the owner.

“You guys can rest in whichever room you prefer,” the owner said. We opted for a room with an attached bathroom. The temperature was in the minus degrees. After lighting a special kind of wood-burning stove, the kitchen warmed up. We sat around it, cracking jokes. After a while, we once again enjoyed Dal Bhat with vegetables, potatoes, and chicken pickles. Feeling some kind of headache, we retired to bed for rest.

Langtang Village & Kyanjin Gumpa

Awakening early in the morning, we braved the sub-zero temperatures and heavy snow to explore outside. The entire village was blanketed in snow due to the substantial snowfall. Despite having rooms with attached bathroom facilities, the water had frozen. Our initial plan to trek to Kyanjin RI and Gosaikunda had to be postponed due to the heavy snowfall.

After our exploration, we returned to the tea house for breakfast. Despite all of us experiencing serious headaches, Pappu seemed to be suffering more, possibly from altitude sickness or some other ailment. Concerned, we hurriedly decided to return, walking as much as we could.

It was almost 7:00 pm as we made our way through the jungle, apprehensive about encountering wild animals. With only one torchlight, we switched on our mobile flashlights, and there was a slight drizzle. Although it seemed ominous that night, in retrospect, it turned out to be a “wow” moment. Eventually, we spotted light.

“Hey, look! That seems to be a tea house,” someone exclaimed. We quickened our pace and were fortunate to spend the night there. However, the dinner experience can only be described in one word – “pathetic.”

The Conclusions

After breakfast, we resumed our journey towards Syabrubesi. We arranged for a vehicle at the tea house, where the driver awaited us. We took the vehicle and returned to Kathmandu at 2:00 pm.

Tea Houses

Accommodation on the trek is always free if you buy food there. The higher you go, the more expensive it gets, which is easy to explain since there is no road, and everything is carried up by donkeys or porters. Since we are traveling during the off-season, in comparison to other destinations, the cost of food during the Langtang trek was cheaper.

From Strangers to Friends

As the trek comes to an end back in Kathmandu, a group of strangers converted as a very good friend. We shared experiences, laughter, and challenges overcome together create a bonding. This trek is not just a journey through the Himalayas; it’s a journey into the hearts of those who started as strangers but, through the shared love of adventure, became an indelible party of your life. The trek was one of the best experiences in my life. The views were amazing, and the difficulty was moderate.

People and Culture

The Tamang people inhabit and surround the Rasuwa district, including the Langtang valley.

Earthquake 2015

The Langtang valley, originating from the Langtang range of mountains, is situated on the bank of the Langtang River. This valley occupies the northeastern region of the Rasuwa district within the Gosaikunda rural municipality, centrally located in Langtang National Park. Renowned for its quaint and tranquil ambiance amidst the Himalayan peaks, the valley, particularly the dense village of Langtang, faced complete destruction during the 2015 earthquake that shook Nepal. As you trek to Langtang valley, remnants and debris of the village can still be observed. The Nepal Langtang Trek offers a unique journey, taking you through this captivating adventure to the region affected by the disaster.